As you know, blistering is a problem plaguing the boating
industry today. Precision Boat Works is extremely careful
to use methods and materials which reduce the chances of blistering,
yet there seems to be no material or method that completely
insures freedom from blistering.
Precision Boat Works recommends that you apply an epoxy barrier
coat and bottom paint to your hull BEFORE use if your boat
will be in the water for any period of time. It is equally
as important that you follow paint manufacturer's recommendation
for proper surface preparation prior to painting.
Do not begin rigging or operating your boat until you have
read and understood all of the following instructions.
You must comply with all US Coast Guard rules and regulations
while sailing. Obtain details from your dealer, USCG or Coast
Guard Auxiliary office.
The mast, stays, and all other parts of sailboats, following
general boat industry practice, are not grounded. Should your
sailboat be struck by lightning or make contact with power
lines, substantial injury may result to the occupants. We
recommend that if you wish to be protected from possible lightning
injury you have your sailboat grounded by a reputable boatyard
as recommended by the American Boat and yacht Council of New
York. Whether or not your boat is grounded, when lightning
is present in your boating area, contact with the mast, stays
and other metallic objects should be avoided.
When operating your sailboat on waterways, charts should be
regularly consulted for presence of navigational hazards.
Keep an eye out for the presence of overhead power lines when
launching and trailing your boat.
A standard textbook, such as Chapman's Piloting, Seamanship
and Small Boat Handling will furnish information on boating
rules safety and procedures.
Mast and Rigging Assembly
Before assembling the mast and rigging, lay the mast horizontally
on saw horses or other supports.
The spreaders are shipped taped to the mast Remove the cotter
pin and clevis pin from each spreader mount on the mast. Attach
each spreader by placing the inner end between the arms of the
spreader mount, lining up the holes and fastening it in place
with the clevis pin and the cotter pin. The cotter pin should
be located on the under side of the spreader. Extend the spreaders
to each side of the mast.
The Precision 15 has two shrouds, port and starboard. Each
shroud has a jaw fitting at the upper end and an eye fitting
at the lower end. The shrouds are attached to the mast by
placing the jaw fittings over the tangs on each side of the
mast and fastening them in place with clevis pins and cotter
pins. The cotter pins should be located on the under side
of the tangs to prevent tearing the sails. Loosen the set
screw at the outer end of each spreader, lead the shrouds
down through the slots in the outer ends of the spreaders,
then tighten the set screws to hold the shrouds in place.
The forestay has a jaw fitting at the upper end and a screw
adjuster with a jaw fitting at the lower end. Place the upper
jaw fitting over the forestay tang on the front of the mast
above the jib halyard block, and secure it in place with a
clevis pin and cotter pin. The cotter pin should be located
underneath the tang.
Pull the free end (not the shackle end) of the main halyard
from back to front over the sheaves in the masthead fitting
and down forward of the mast and spreaders to the foot of
the mast. Keeping the shackle end aft of the mast and spreaders,
tie both ends of the halyard to the starboard mast cleat.
the free end (not the shackle end)of the jib halyard from
front to back over the block attached to the front of the
mast just under the forestay tang, and down to the bottom
of the mast. Keeping both ends of the halyard forward of the
mast and spreaders, tie them to the port mast cleat.
Preparing to Step the Mast
Two people are needed to step the mast. Before moving the
mast to the boat make sure that the shrouds, forestay and
halyards run freely to the bottom of the mast. Lay the mast
along the top of the boat with the masthead at the stern,
the foot of the mast at the bow and jib halyard block facing
Attaching the Shrouds to the Chainplates
the two shroud adjusters in the equipment package. slip the
jaws of one shroud adjuster over each chainplate ring (located
on each side of the deck aft of the tabernacle mount) so that
the open ends of the adjuster face up. place the eye fitting
at the lower end of the port shroud adjuster and fasten it
in place with a clevis pin and cotter ring, using the third
hole from the top in the shroud adjuster. Do the same with
the starboard shroud and starboard shroud adjuster. Be sure
that the shrouds are not twisted around the mast, spreaders
or other rigging. The clevis pins may have to be relocated
later in different holes in the shroud adjusters, for proper
CAUTION! MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO UTILITY WIRES OVERHEAD
OR BETWEEN THE BOAT AND THE LAUNCHING SITE. RIGGING OR MAST
CONTACT WITH ELECTRIC WIRES CAN BE DANGEROUS AND POSSIBLY
Attaching The Mast to the Tabernacle
Move the mast aft until the foot is even with the tabernacle
mount on the deck. One person on the ground at the rear of
the boat should support the rear (top) end of the mast at
this point. slide the step pins at the foot of the mast forward
and down into the slots in the tabernacle mount.
Raising The Mast
One person standing in the cockpit can raise the mast to
a vertical position while the other person watches to see
that none of the rigging is kinked or tangled as the mast
goes up. Do not let the mast sway to either side while raising
it. When the mast is vertical the step pins will slide to
the lowermost position in the tabernacle slots and the mast
will sit squarely in the tabernacle. While one person holds
the mast upright, the other pulls the forestay to the bow,
being sure it is not tangled around other rigging, and attaches
the forestay screw adjuster jaws to the center hole in the
bow chainplate with a clevis pin and cotter ring.
Note: If the mast cannot be raised because
the shrouds are too tight, move the clevis pins in both shroud
adjusters to the next higher hole. The pins should always
be in matching holes in port and starboard shroud adjusters.
Installing the Boom
the boom with the sail track uppermost and the gooseneck forward,
insert the gooseneck blade into the entry slot in the
mast track and let it slide down into place. The downhaul
ring on the gooseneck should be lowermost. The end of the
boom may then be held up out of the cockpit by shackling the
main halyard to the cap at the after end of the boom. Pull
the bitter end of the halyard until the boom is high enough,
then tie it to the starboard mast cleat.
Attach the downhaul line to the ring on the under side of
the gooseneck with a bowline and tie the lower end to the
cleat at the bottom of the mast.
Rigging the Mainsheet
Using a bowline, tie one end of the mainsheet to the pin
located on top of the forward mainsheet block on the centerboard
trunk. Lead the other end of the mainsheet up and from back
to front over the forward mainsheet block on the boom, then
down and from front to back under the mainsheet block on the
centerboard trunk, then up and from front to back over the
after side of the mainsheet block on the boom, then down under
the block on the mainsheet cam cleat on the centerboard trunk
and through the cam cleat which will hold it in place. To
release the mainsheet from the jaws of the cleat, pull it
back and up. Tie a stopper knot in the bitter end of the mainsheet
to prevent it from running back out through the blocks when
released from the cleat.
Assembling the Boom Vang
The vang assembly consists of a double block at the upper
end, a jam/fiddle block at the lower end and a line with an
eye splice at one end. Shackle the double block to the eye
strap on the under side of the boom. Shackle the jam/fiddle
block to the eye strap at the bottom of the mast. secure the
line eye to the pin in the top of the jam/fiddle block, up
and from back to front through the other side of the double
block, down and from front to back through the lower sheave
in the jam/fiddle block and out through the jam cleat. Be
sure the line is not twisted and runs freely through the blocks.
Tie a stopper knot in the bitter end of the line so it cannot
run back out through the blocks when released from the jam
Tuning the Rigging
When properly tuned the mast should be vertical and the shrouds
and forestay fairly taut but not bar-tight. If, after the
mast is raised, the shrouds are extremely slack, move the
clevis pin in each shroud adjuster to the next lower hole.
The screw adjuster at the bottom of the forestay may be turned
to tighten or loosen the forestay if the mast leans forward
Two people can
lower the mast for tailoring. Remove the mainsheet from its
blocks, leaving it attached to the lower block and coiling
it in the cockpit. Remove the boom vang assembly. Untie the
downhaul from the mast cleat, slide the boom gooseneck up
out of the slot in the mast track and place the boom in the
cockpit. Holding the mast, unfasten the forestay from the
bow chainplate, leaving the clevis pin and cotter ring in
the screw adjuster jaws. Lower the mast to the rear and remove
the step pins from the tabernacle. Tie or tape the shrouds,
forestay and halyards to the main mast and secure the mast
on top of the boat.
Occasionally recheck the tuning since rigging tends to stretch
slightly over time. Loose shrouds or forestay will result
in poor sailing performance.
Mounting the Rudder
The rudder and tiller are factory-assembled. Mount the complete
rudder assembly on the boat by placing the top and bottom
gudgeons of the rudder cheeks over the pintles on the transom
of the boat. Insert the hairpin cotter pin into the hole in
the upper pintle to lock the rudder in place. The rudder blade
can be held up or down by tightening the locking bar on the
port side of the rudder cheeks. It should be in the up position
when launching or loading the boat on the trailer. Turn the
swivel bolt so that the locking bar faces away from the transom
Operating the Centerboard (Centerboard 15 only)
The centerboard is held in the centerboard trunk by a pin
that permits the board to swing up and down. The centerboard
pennant runs up through a hole in the top of the centerboard
trunk and is secured to a cleat just aft of the hole. Pull
the pennant to raise the centerboard and cleat it to hold
the board in the up position. Ease out the pennant to let
the centerboard drop to its lowest position. To avoid damage,
do not let the centerboard drop without tension on the pennant.
The centerboard may be adjusted to any positioning between,
and must be in the up position while launching or loading
the boat on the trailer, or while sailing in shoal areas.
The centerboard must be fully down for most efficient sailing,
particularly to windward.
Bending On the Sails
Always raise or lower the mainsail with the boat facing into
the wind so that the sail does not hang up in the mast track
or on the spreaders. The jib can be raised or lowered on any
point of sail.
Rigging the Mainsail
Unfold the mainsail, remembering how it was folder so you
can easily rebag it later, and slide the battens into the
three batten pockets sewed into the leech of the sail. The
short battens go in the upper and lower pockets and the long
batten goes in the center pocket. Be sure each batten sits
in the elastic loop in the front of the batten pocket, and
is fully seated in the rear of the pocket so that it cannot
fall out. Remove the battens before refolding and bagging
the sail. There is a boltrope running along the foot of the
mainsail. Put the after end of the boltrope into the forward
end of the track on top of the boom, then slide the sail back
until the entire boltrope is in the track and the sail is
secured to the boom. Run the tack shackle pin on top of the
gooseneck through the tack cringle on the forward end of the
sail foot and secure it with the cotter ring. Using a bowline,
tie the outhaul line to the clew cringle in the after end
of the sail foot. Run the bitter end aft through the outhaul
block on the boom cap then forward to the cleat on the starboard
side of the boom. Pull the outhaul line tight until there
are no wrinkles in the foot of the mainsail, then secure it
to the cleat with a figure 8 hitch.
Note: While rigging sails, always hold on
to both ends of the halyard until both shackle and bitter
end are secured to sails and/or cleats. otherwise you may
have to lower the mast to retrieve or re-rig the end that
flew up to the masthead.
main halyard is secured to the starboard mast cleat with the
shackle end falling aft of the mast and spreaders. Be sure
the halyard is not twisted around the mast, spreaders or other
rigging and attach the shackle to the cringle in the headboard
of the mainsail. Hold on to the bitter end of the halyard.
Fasten it to its mast cleat if you are not immediately raising
Raising the Mainsail
Release the mainsheet from its camcleat and release the boom
vang and downhaul lines. Raise the mainsail with the main
halyard, feeding the luff boltrope into the mast track as
the sail goes up. Raise the sail as far as it will go to the
top of the mast and tie the halyard to the starboard mast
cleat with a figure 8 hitch. Pull the boom gooseneck down
in the mast track with the downhaul line to the after mast
cleat. If the mainsail does not go to the top of the mast,
the mainsheet, boom vang or downhaul may still be cleated
or the boltrope not properly set in the track.
The boom and mainsail can be trimmed in or out by pulling
or releasing the mainsheet and cleating it in the desired
Rigging the Jib
Using the tack shackle, secure the jib tack cringle at the
forward end of the jib foot to the rearmost hole in the bow
chainplate, then attach the snap hanks on the jib luff to
the forestay starting with the bottom hank. Do not skip a
hank or twist the jib.
Bring both ends of the jibsheet together evenly. Push the
resulting loop at the center of the jibsheet three or four
inches through the clew cringle at the after end of the jib
foot. Pull the two sheet ends together through the loop to
form a knot. Pull the knot tight so that the sheet cannot
slip out of the clew cringle. Lead the two sheet ends aft,
one on the port side and one on the starboard side, aside
the shrouds and through the jib fairlead and cam cleat located
on each side of the cockpit. Put a stopper knot on the end
of each sheet to prevent it from running back through the
fairlead when released from the cleat. The jib halyard is
secured to the port mast cleat with both ends forward of the
mast and spreaders. Be sure the halyards is not twisted around
the mast, spreaders or other rigging and attach the shackle
to the cringle at the head of the jib. Hold on to the other
end of the halyard. Fasten it to its mast cleat if you are
not immediately raising the jib.
Raising the Jib
Pull the jib up the forestay with the bitter end of the jib
halyard as far as possible until the luff of the sail has
no wrinkles, then secure the halyard to the port mast cleat
with a figure 8 hitch. When sailing, the jib is trimmed in
or out with the leeward jibsheet which is then cleated in
the leeward camcleat. The windward jibsheet should be uncleated
and slack. When tacking, release the cleated end of the jibsheet
from its cleat as the bow of the boat comes through the wind,
then pull it in and cleat it in and cleat it on the opposite
Proper sail trim will give your boat better performance.
Trim your sails for your point of sail (your course with reference
to the wind) by letting out the mainsheet and jib sheet until
the flutter stops and the sail is full, then do the same with
the mainsheet. If both mainsheet and jibsheet are pulled in
tight (close-hauled) and the boat is not moving well, slack
off the sheets until the boat starts moving.
The jibsheet cleats are mounted on cars which can be moved
inboard or outboard on tracks. In general, they should be
moved inboard when beating into the wind, outboard when running
with the wind behind you and about midway on the track when
reaching with the wind on your beam. They should be adjusted
so that there is no twist near the top of the jib.
more speed going downwind, slack off both the outhaul and
downhaul as well as the sheets. Pull everything tight again
as you beat higher into the wind. The boom vang can be adjusted
to hold the boom level when sailing off the wind, or to let
the boom rise and the upper part of the mainsail twist and
spill air in heavier wind. In really heavy air, drop the jib
sail with the main sail alone for better control of the boat.
These are six-inch signal lengths of yarn or tape tied to
the shrouds about six feet above the deck, to determine apparent
wind direction. A wind pennant or vane on the masthead is
also useful . Six inch pieces of yarn taped to both sides
of the jib eight inches back from the luff and sixteen inches
above the deck are excellent trim guides. If the boat is pointing
too high into the wind the windward telltale will flutter
upward and if the boat is pointing too low the leeward telltale
will flutter. Both jib telltales should stream back evenly.
If they don't, adjust your sail trim until they do. Telltales
are essential for sailboat racing, and can also be used on
The Precision 15 has a self-baling cockpit which permits
any water taken aboard to drain out through two holes in the
transom. These holes should be open at all times. there is
also a third drain hole with a plug to get rid of any water
that seeps in between the double hulls. This plug should
be inserted and locked in place before the boat is put in
Although fiberglass is a relatively simple material to work
with, we urge that you familiarize yourself with the proper
procedures in order to get good results. The surface color
(gel coat) should be cleaned and waxed at least twice a year
to maintain its luster. The color may fade due to weathering,
and if ordinary cleaning does not bring the color back, apply
a regular automotive compound followed by waxing.
In the course of normal use, should leaks develop through
hardware fastenings or hull and deck joints, they can be easily
fixed by applying a good marine sealant and tightening all
Dry and fold all sails carefully after each use and, if used
on salt water, always wash them with fresh water. Fold by
stretching out the sail on a clean surface, and starting at
the foot with someone at both clew and tack, make one-foot
folds by bringing the head down towards the foot gradually
and evenly. Finally, fold from clew to tack or vice-versa.
Keep the sails in their sailbag when not in use.
Teak can be either oiled or varnished, and should be oiled
at least once a month to prevent splitting.